ulje za motor

Posedujem lanos 1999.god, 1.4. Uvezen iz Holandije .Odmah pri kupovini zamenila sam ulje u motoru po savetu servisa,stavila sam ulje MOBIL 10W40 oznake kvaliteta ulja SJ/SL.Tom prilikom sam zamenila i filter.Posle predjenih 5.000.kmponovo sam zamenila isto ulje i filter.Nakon predjenih oko 2.000km posle zamene primetila sam da se palila povremeno signalna lampa za ulje,iskljucila sam vozilo iz voznje i otisla do servisa.Tom prilikom je ustanovljene da je zaribala bregasta osovina.Serviseri su demontirali motor i videli da je resetka na pumpi za mazivo totalno zatvorena i obavijena smolastom materijom.

U servisu je otklonjen kvar i ponovo sipano ulje istog kvaliteta.Kasnije sam u uputstvu o vozilu koje je na nemackom jeziku primetila da se za benzinski motor kakav je moj,upotrebljava ulje oznake SH viskoziteta
10w40 "likvimoli".Ulje koje se preporucuje u uputstvu je za motore iz 1996.god i starije

Interesuje me da li neko zna da li mi se nece ovo ponoviti sa tim uljem ,i da li neko zna koje ulje je za ovaj motor.

hvalaaa unapred...

to SH je nekakva standardizacija, a viskozitet je to 10-40... ispravno ulje si sipala sto se tice toga, ali sto se tice kvaliteta konrkretno tog ulja sto je napravilo dar-mar, to verovatno nikad neces saznati... ako je sve radjeno u istom servisu onda neka se oni muce sa tim, i nadam se da nisu naplatili to otvaranje motora...

evo mozda ovo pomogne da shvatis koliko to SH nema veze, prica se o bajkovima ali sustina je ista

API OIL RATING GUIDE:
The American Petroleum Institute provides standards for rating the viscosity and certain contents of motor oils. This permits oils from different manufacturers to be compared in terms of standard viscosity weights. It also permits oils from different manufacturers to be compared in terms of meeting specific guidelines for content formulation (primarily to ensure compatibility with specific pollution control systems mandated by the government, such as catalytic converters, as well as fuel-mileage increases by reduced oil-based frictional loses), but it refers specifically to automobile engines, not motorcycle engines.

Is SL or SM better than SF/SG for my Motorcycle?
API's Standards Rating is influenced by government mandates (such as pollution control), and thus oils meeting newer ratings do not necessarily perform better (or even the same as) oils meeting an older rating, depending on your motorcycle engine type. API standards are created for automobile engines, not motorcycle engines. For their rating system explained, see the API MOTOR OIL GUIDE (current guide with SM classification on it).

API CLASS RATINGS APPLICABLE TO MOTORCYCLES:

* SA through SE OBSOLETE -- Use SF/SG or SH unless you find motorcycle oil which still meets the original rating that your bike calls for in the owner's manual. I am not familiar with any SA/SB/SC/SD/SE rated oils still on the market, but there may be some available for special vintage class bikes (bikes built between 1910 and 1970).

* SF & SG TECHNICALLY OBSOLETE FOR CARS, BUT STILL IN COMMON USE FOR MOTORCYCLE OILS -- You can find motorcycle oil which still meets the SF/SG rating (such as offerings from Castrol, Mobil, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Bellray, Motorex, Motul, Repsoil, etc). If your bike calls for that in the owner's manual, there are still a large number of motorcycle-specific motor oils on the market that are SF/SG rated, including every motorcycle oil which meets the full JASO-MA specification. Most current motorcycle engines still call for SF/SG rated motor oils. If you can not find an SF/SG rated oil and that is the rating called for, use an SH or SH+SJ rated oil -- but do not use API SJ, SL or SM!

* SH Technically obsolete. This oil specification is used by some motorcycle manufacturers, and you can still find many SH rated motorcycle oils on the market. Do not use if your motorcycle calls for API SJ/SL/SM rated oils (only a few do).

* SJ Technically obsolete. For 2001 and older automobile engines. An "Energy Conserving" motor oil (something good for late model cars, not most motorcycles). Note that this standard reduces the phosphorus contents of the motor oil, which is not necessarily a desirable reduction for most motorcycle engines. Check your motorcycle owner's manual specifically for recommendation of an SJ-rated motor oil before using it in your motorcycle, or stick to using SF/SG-rated, SH-rated or dual-rated (SH+SJ) motorcycle oils instead. Do not use unless an API SJ rating is specifically called for by your motorcycle manufacturer.

* SL Technically obsolete. For 6/2001 - 11/2004 automobile engines. An "Energy Conserving" motor oil (something good for late model cars, not most motorcycles). Note that this standard reduces the ZDDP (zinc and phosphorus) additive contents of the motor oil even further than SJ rated motor oils, which is not a desirable reduction for most motorcycle engines. Check your motorcycle owner's manual specifically for recommendation of an SJ or SL rated motor oil before using an API SL rated oil in your motorcycle! Do not use unless an API SJ or API SL rating is specifically called for by your motorcycle manufacturer.

* SM NEW/Current. For all 12/2004 and later automobile engines.

Polusinteticko 10W-40 ulje, Castrol ili GM ili Valvoline(mada se mnogi ne hvale sa njim, ja licno nemam nikakvih problema).

Dobro dosla i pozdrav

GM polusintetika 10-40.Nemoj menjati ulje na 5000 km teraj do bar 10000km.Automobil je star 12 godina i automehaničar bi trebao da proceni u kakvom je stanju motor i da izabere pravo ulje za stanje motora.

Koliko znam ulje se menja na 10.000 ili na godinu dana, sta pre od toga dostigne.
Ja sam recimo moje zamenio na 7500 km, ali sam dogurao na godinu dana od zamene.
A i sve to zavisi od uslova rada motora i sl. Tezi uslovi rada se podrazumevaju startovanje motora i voznje od po 3-5-10km i sl.
Primera radi, auto skole, menjaju ulja na po 5000km. Jer oni recimo na poligonu sat vrmena se vozi napred nazad, predje cirka mozda km, al zato je auto radio sat vremena.
Neko ko vozi duge relacije i putuje dosta, on moze da priusti do 10 hiljada km. Ko se bazira na gradske voznje i tome slicno trebalo bi vec posla 7 hiljada da razmislja o promeni.
A obavezno posle godinu dana bez obzira na predjene km.

Smolasta materija se javlja kad se nakupi kondenz, ako se auto ne vozi baš dugo(stoji na placu), ili ako ti je u jednoj od dve ''domaće'' zamene uleteo ''original''. Treća, malo verovatna opcija je, da je prethodno ulje bilo neko baš debelo različito od ovoga, pa se ''ne trpi'' sa ovim novim (ali teško), ili da je sipan neki aditiv. Jednom sam platio cenu ''ORIGINALNOG'' Mobila i od tad izbegavam ''brendove'' ulja. Inače vozila u Holandiji prelaze preko 25.000km godišnje, a perfektno su očuvana, tako da... sve je moguće.

od svega toga sto si nabrojao ja bi isao na kondenz ili na lose ulje, ovo da se ne trpe tesko da pije vodu jer je menjala i filter i ulje... u svakom slucaju su mi sjajni ovvi sto postave pitanje pa mi mozgamo a njih nema cak ni da procitaju:)

Mislio sam više u kombinaciji sa prethodna dva, nisam se lepo odrazio...

Samo opušteno...

Hvala svima na savetima